Saturday, October 5, 2024

The dishes that define the Long Beach food scene

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There is no question that the Long Beach food scene has undergone a wild transformation over the past few years—let alone the past decade or more. While many places have come and gone, Long Beach still has that mingling of legacy restaurants that have withstood the test of time along with newly minted stars that have created some truly remarkable dishes. Together, they create the new definition of what Long Beach food is.

These are an array of dishes that will kind of always be there. (I say “kind of” because, well, life is temporary.) This is by no means a complete list but a great way to start.

In no particular order…


The Joe’s Special with a pickled egg from Joe Jost’s

2803 E. Anaheim St.

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The Joe’s Special from Joe Jost’s. Photo by Trevor Hagstrom.

Outside of Snoop Dogg’s mug itself, there is likely no more ubiquitous of a Long Beach emblem than Joe Jost’s. And just as emblematic is their Joe’s Special and pickled eggs. The former is about as basic as one can get: A steamed slice of rye slathered with a dollop of mustard before being stuffed with a pickle spear, Swiss cheese, and a Polish sausage made from a family-kept blend of spices.


Palestinian musakhan (مسخّن) from Ammatolí

285 E. 3rd St.

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The Palestinian musakhan from AmmatolĂ­ is a defintiive part of our culture now. Photo by Brian Addison.

She’s been recognized by James Beard. Los Angeles Times food critic Bill Addison has described her food as the “the consummate classical Levantine cooking of Southern California.” And yes, it is home to Long Beach and no other place on the planet—and I say that because I have literally witnessed investors from Qatar to Vegas pitch Chef Dima Habibeh on another location. To which she proudly and confidently rejects because Ammatolí—a titular nod to her roots in Amman, Jordan—is truly her baby.

And there is perhaps no dish that is as special to the culinary world as it is to Long Beach than her Palestinian musakhan. Chef Dima’s patriarchal half is native to Palestine. And this dish is an ode to her father’s heritage and birthplace, as well as to the people of Palestine itself. A bed of house-made pita sits underneath roasted chicken layered with hefty coats of sumac, caramelized onions, and toasted almond slivers. Then there’s the waft of everything else:  cinnamon, coriander, cardamom… It’s incredible we have this version of this dish at immediate reach—and only testifies to the fact that Chef Dima operates one of, if not the best restaurant in the city.


House special from from Phnom Penh Noodle Shack

1644 Cherry St.

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The House Special from Phnom Penh Noodle Shack (in soup style and you should order it dry with the broth separate, dammit). Photo by Brian Addison.

I have never been light when it comes to the words or love I have for our Cambodian community and its cuisine. Whether it is a bowl of silky, umami-packed nom p’joe from Crystal Thai Cambodian (on this very list) or pulled pork banh chao from Battambong BBQ, I feel every person experiencing understand the weight of what it took to get that dish to your chopsticks. 

Cambodian food in Long Beach is more than a cuisine; it is the essence of a community nearly eradicated from history. Those who escaped the genocide made their home here in Long Beach after being taken to Camp Pendleton by rescuers from the U.S. military. For that reason alone, Long Beach is home to the most traditional, concentrated cluster of Cambodian cuisine.

The House Special represents the culmination of the Cambodian cultural cluster that been birthed in Long Beach. And, unlike the photo, I suggest ordering it dry—or the broth separated from the noodles and add bits as needed. We have a bowl of ground pork and sliced pork, paired with slivers of pork stomach and liver and shrimp, placed atop noodles and served with as little or many accoutrements as you would like. Extra Thai chile for me, none for others. Garlic fish sauce for some, hoisin for others, both for some.

Either way, it’s more than a cup of noodles; it’s a beautiful display of culinary art and cultural resilience.


Ground pepperoni pizza from Domenico’s

285 E. 3rd St.

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The ground pepperoni pizza from Domenico’s. Courtesy of business.

Domenico’s is Long Beach’s oldest restaurant—and it is known for a pizza that, even by today’s standards, bucks the trend of how a pizza is traditionally assembled. Taking a cue from a Chicago-style deep dish (without the deep dish crust), mozzarella is layered first, followed by marinara and a hefty dressing of ground pepperoni. For some, it might be too much of a salt bomb, but for many, it has stood the test of time as one of Long Beach’s most iconic dishes.

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Shrimp and melon salad from Ellie’s

204 Orange Ave.

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The shrimp and melon salad from Ellie’s. Photo by Brian Addison.

Chef Jason Witzl’s Southern Italian-inspired and California-driven restaurant is a stronghold in the Long Beach restaurant scene. Handmade pasta, seasonal produce, and wild game characterize the dinner menu, with plates often changing alongside whims of nature—and of the chef. 

It would be easy to highlight any of their pasta dishes as Ellie’s sit firmly alongside some of the best pastaio in the city including La Parolaccia, Nonna Mercato, and Michael’s. Still, one often dismisses Chef Jason’s masterful take on salads. And the one that definitively cemented Witzl’s place in the Long Beach food lexicon is his iconic shrimp and melon salad. Slivers of serrano chile meld with crème fraĂ®che, sweet melon, succulent shrimp. Crunchy grains of quinoa add texture, while mint adds a menthol boost. It’s a damn near-perfect salad. Well, actually, it’s a perfect salad. Period.

To read Brian Addison’s latest feature on Ellie’s, click here.


Mac’n’cheetos from The Attic

3441 E. Broadway

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The Attic’s mac’n’cheetos have been a staple for quite some time. Photo by Brian Addison/Visit Long Beach.

Surely, Chef Cameron Slaugh is going to look at this like, “Really, Addison?” But again, this list isn’t about what’s best at a restaurant—but what it’s contributed to the culture. And The Attic’s mac’n’Cheetos is so damn popular that after Chef Cameron on and completley 180-ed the space, he had to keep it on the menu.

Created by Chef “Roq” Jubran when The Attic first took over the space after Lasher’s closed, this decade-old dish has perpetually remained a best-seller at The Attic, with Chef Cameron’s refining of the recipe making the current version its best.


Thai curry pizza from Thai Curry Pizza & Thai Cuisine

929 Redondo Ave.

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Thai Curry Pizza. Photo by Javier Cabral for L.A. TACO.

While I’ve heard rumors each year that Little Coyote wants to do a play on the Long Beach original that is Thai Curry (and their Tom Yum) Pizza, all I can say is that this house does not stand for Thai Curry Pizza ripoffs or mimicry. Owners Sam and Sue have perfected the brilliant blend of their own Thai heritage with the American take on pizza: Slathering a doughy, chewy crust with panang yellow curry before topping it bell peppers, onion, and cheese, this magical pie—which joins its Thai pizza sibling, their equally great Tom Yum pizza—is something that works in a genuinely surprising way upon first bite.

It’s a love letter to Long Beach, sent from the heart of Italy through Thailand. (And OGs know to always get the $1 extra side of curry for dipping.)


Fish and chips from The Auld Dubliner

105 Pine Ave. 

The Auld Dubliner's fish and chips—arguably the best in the city—have remained on the menu since opening day. Photo by Brian Addison.
The Auld Dubliner’s fish and chips—arguably the best in the city—have remained on the menu since opening day. Photo by Brian Addison.

The Auld Dub is approaching 20 years serving the Long Beach community—and for those that don’t know its owner David Copley (along with his longtime creative partner, former Dub overseer, and now owner of The Ordinarie, Christy Caldwell) there is a particular brand of “This Is Special” that applies to The Auld Dub.

Forget the fact that the space was designed in Ireland proper and flown over in pieces to be assembled on sight, attempting to mimic an Irish pub as traditionally as possible. 

Forget the fact that Copley takes an annual crew of worthy and loyal patrons to the Motherland itself, showcasing not just where their experience comes from but to update the menu and vibe at The Dub in order to keep in pace with Ireland proper.

It is an letter of love to Long Beach from Ireland—a point I hope no one easily dismisses.

And their fish and chips—unquestionably the best in the city—is a mighty ode to one of the Irish’s staples of sustenance: A massive, single chunk of haddock sits atop fresh cut fries, next to a heap of coleslaw and some of the best tartar you’ll ever enjoy.

Addictive, creamy, crunchy, salty, wonderful.


Carne en su jugo from Cañada’s Grill

3721 E. Anaheim St.

The carne en su jugo from Cañada's Grill. Photo by Brian Addison.
The carne en su jugo from Cañada’s Grill. Photo by Brian Addison.

Cañada’s Grill offers up the best version of the famed Jalisciense dish in Long Beach: Carne en su jugo. Like many of Mexico’s grand states, Jalisco is one that is filled with culinary glory. From being the birthplace of torta ahogadas and birria to being home to brilliant interpretations of classics, like the Jalisciense version of flan known as jericalla, it is no shocker that the owners of Cañadas Grill in Long Beach’s Zaferia hail from this area, given their menu.

And one particular stand-out is their utterly delectable caldo known as carne en su jugo, roughly translated as “meat in its juice”—and one of the most satisfying, hearty representations of Jalisciense cuisine. This chunky soup, where minced and roasted bits of beef marinate and stew in their own juices with tomatillos for hours on end, combines that beefiness with chunks of bacon and whole white beans. Cañadas gives you a healthy side of lime slices, raw onion, cilantro, cabbage, roasted jalapeño, and pickled onion to add to your liking.

Grab a cerveza and I promise that you’ll be in autumn heaven.


Smoked pollo from Selva

4137 E. Anaheim St. B

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The ‘Smoked Pollo’ from Selva. Photo by Brian Addison.

It has been a wild first two years for Selva, scoring spots on critic Bill Addison’s Best 101 Restaurants list for the Los Angeles Times each year—and ever since writing about Chef Carlos Jurado’s Colombian love letter of an inaugural menu, it has been both a privilege to see him push boundaries while also harnessing his Colombian heritage.

Bringing Long Beach the wonders of Colombian cuisine, there is no deeper sense of soul in a plate from the space than the one that stems from the simply named “Smoked Pollo.” The chicken’s aromatics—turmeric meets smoked salt meets burning wood—pair with the festive array of colors: Glowing Marigold flowers are tucked between the chicken and arepas flayed out on the plate. Bright yellow and red pickled biquinho peppers sit atop equally bright green banana leaves. 

It is a special dish from a special place—and always worthy of a re-order, even as Chef Carlos evolves with an entirely new flexing of his skills.


Lumpia Shanghai from Gemmae Bakeshop

1356 W. Willow St

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Lumpia Shanghai being fried at Gemmae Bakeshop. Photo by Brian Addison.

To see the growth of Catherine Tolentino—the daughter of Prescilla Tolentino, who uprooted herself 30 years from the Philippines to open Gemmae Bake Shop in Long Beach—is to witness a daughter not only grasp her mom’s ambition but also inherit her talent. Gemmae has grown beyond a bake shop and into a true community asset: Expanding to offer hot foods, proudly charging into the 2020s with contemporary takes on Filipino classics (like their stuffed pandesal, which alters with a new flavor monthly), and a continual love of collaborations (like her stellar sisig pizza collab with Chef Jason Winters over at Speak Cheezy, another dish on this list), Catherine is taking on her mom’s spirit in creative ways that even get the hard-to-earn-but-very-much-worth-it Nod of Approval from Prescilla.

But nothing perhaps defines the space more than their lumpia Shanghai (or their ube loaf), a definitive representation of the classic Filipino fried food. Savory, tightly rolled, and available to order frozen to make at home, these are lumpia perfected.


Taquitos de papa at El Barrio Cantina

1731 E. 4th St. 

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Taquitos de papa from El Barrio Cantina. Photo by Brian Addison.

I’ve always said that Chef Ulises Pineda-Alfaro’s food comes from that old-school ideology that food should speak for itself—leaving aside seemingly endless conversations about food diasporas, what defines undefinable things such as “authenticity,” and the politics behind food. No matter how you dice it, though, you can’t help but notice how the very neighborhood that shaped the chef—Los Angeles—plays a role in one of his stand-out dishes: the taquitos de papa.

Cheesy potatos stuffed into mini deep fried corn tortilla shells. Stacked with queso fresco, cilantro, crema, and an avocado salsa. Even more? This is Chef Ulises’s mom’s recipe, right down to the salsa de aguacate.


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Nom p’jok from Crystal Thai Cambodian. Photo by Brian Addison.

Nom p’jok from Crystal Thai Cambodian

1165 E. 10th St.

I was happily introduced to the beautiful plate of what James called “a Cambodian house in a bowl.”

It was the nom p’jok, a bowl of thick, vermicelli noodles topped with an assortment of herbal leaves and a separate bowl filled with a turmeric-tinged broth that uses muddled catfish as its base and then, through some culinary alchemy, results in a umami-meets-citrus bomb that is as light as it is addictive. Add some fresh squeezed Keffir lime and Thai chile and you have one of my favorite bowls of noodles I’ve had since first experiencing Noodle Shack’s house special.

Cash only and, I want to bear this suggestion: Try to go with a Cambo friend.


Kouign amman from Colossus

4716 E. 2nd St.

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The kouign amman from Colossus. Courtesy of business.

Colossus is easily one of the city’s best if not the best bakery.

Owner Kristin Colazus-Rodriguez and “Jeff de Cusine” Jeff Paletz have been slinging a variety of things—including rather stellar pies—but there is perhaps nothing more definitive of their rightful rise than their kouign amman.

“Our signature kouign amann has been a fan favorite years,” Kristin said. “Croissant made in-house using Isigny imported French butter and Camas Country Mill whole grain and Central Milling organic flours. We caramelize the croissant pastry in a pastry ring with sugar, butter, vanilla bean, and a pinch of salt for a gooey middle and a flakey caramel bottom. The perfect marriage of salty, sweet, gooey and flakey.”

Perfect indeed.


Sushi Nikkei tasting from Sushi Nikkei

3819 Atlantic Ave. in Bixby Knolls & 5020 E. 2nd St. in Belmont Shore

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The Sushi Nikkei Tasting plate. Photo by Brian Addison/Visit Long Beach.

The fact that we have this kind of cuisine at all, especially here in Long Beach, is truly beautiful: While “nikkei” refers to anyone of Japanese heritage outside of Japan proper, the Nikkei in Peru have face immense struggles in order to maintain their existence, making their food not just unique but one of cultural resilience (much like the Cambodian food we are blessed to have in the city). 

And for those uninitiated in Nikkei cuisine—just as I was—fear not: The servers are there to help or, if you trust me, I can assure you there is no bad order at Sushi Nikkei. However, I do have a sincerely deep suggestion: The eight-piece Sushi Nikkei tasting, where you can feel and taste the evolution of Eduardo’s sushi journey.

For Brian Addison’s full feature on Sushi Nikkei, click here.


Khao soi from Chiang Rai

3832 E. Anaheim St.

The khao soi from Chiang Rai That Street Food. Photo by Brian Addison.
The khao soi from Chiang Rai That Street Food. Photo by Brian Addison.

Chiang Rai has gone from way (way, way) under the radar to Michelin-recognized within seven months of its opening after it took over the Moo Pa space before it.

And for good reason: Unassuming on the outside and colorful, bright on the inside, Chiang Rai represents the full spectrum of Thai food proper and Thai food-gone-Californian.

Their khao soi, featured on the menu that blends traditional Thai food with more local ingredients, is a stellar stand-out: Egg Noodles are slathered in a bright yellow curry sauce serve before being topped with fried, crispy egg noodle strings, pickled mustard greens, and shallots. My protein suggestion? The tofu or ribeye.


Saganaki from George’s Greek on 2nd

5316 E. 2nd St.

Saganaki from George's Greek Cafe in Belmont Shore, the last George's owned by the original family. Photo by Brian Addison.
Saganaki from George’s Greek Cafe in Belmont Shore, the last George’s owned by the original family. Photo by Brian Addison.

George’s on 2nd isn’t just a staple; it’s a legacy restaurant space. And this location is the last remaining vestige of the family brand after the Loizides’ sold their Downtown Long Beach and Lakewood locations. Nicky Loizides, sister of Demitri “Jimmy” Loizides, with whom she shares ownership of George’s Greek Cafe, heads the Shore location with all the might and must of her father, George.

And perhaps nothing represents the space more than its classic saganaki, something I tend to forget ordering because I feel I’ve had it so often but then when I have it again, I wonder why I don’t order it all the time. Lemony, brine-y in the best way possible, with a beautiful hint of bitter, this fried cheese wonder is a staple for the Long Beach food scene.


Butter cake from Nick’s on 2nd

5620 E. 2nd St.

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Butter cake from Nick’s on 2nd. Courtesy of business.

There is something deeply respectable about consistency, and Nick’s is one of the city’s most consistent spaces for those that love its food.

I agree with and understand criticisms that Nick’s doesn’t challenge much in terms of its food; this list isn’t about that. With a menu that has largely remained unchanged since its opening over a decade ago, it is as straightforward as an American restaurant can be: excellently made steaks, sides like fried deviled eggs that rarely fail, and the dish that cements the whole deal, a butter cake dessert that is one of the best in the city. 


Pizza from La Parolaccia Osteria

2495 E. Broadway

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Michael Procaccini of La Parolaccia paddles a pie at his Long Beach restaurant. Photo by Brian Addison.

The many wonders of the carb master and gluten samurai that is pizzaiolo Michael Procaccini cannot be understated: glorious pastas, spectacular paninos made from in-house focaccia, and, of course, practically perfect Roman pizzas.

For its many years, many of the patrons at the long-loved (and rightfully so) Roman restaurant that is La Parolaccia have been led toward their pastas and pizzas—but it wasn’t until son of the patriarch Michael began honing his pizza skills that the restaurant became what could arguably be called the best pizza in Long Beach. Beautifully straddling the line between a nearly carb-for-carb imitation of Roman pizza proper and something distinctly Long Beach, Procaccini ability to master gluten, toppings, and the 900-plus degrees of his shipped-from-Italy wood fire oven are nothing short of spectacular.

There’s a reason I called this joint the mother of Mother Wolf when writing about them for Eater LA—and even more, it has the soul, warmth, and charisma that Mother Wolf could only attempt to mimic.

For Brian Addison’s full feature on La Parolaccia for Eater LA, click here.


Maharajah burrito from Appu’s Cafe

3816 Woodruff Ave. (inside the Woodruff Medical Center)

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Appu’s Cafe’s famous Maharajah burrito. Photo by Brian Addison.

The much-loved (and much-recognized) Appu’s Cafe—Chef Vinod Venkataraman’s definitely-Indian-kinda-fusion restaurant that was birthed inside the Woodruff Medical Offices—opened a second location at the former Chix Nashville Hot Chicken space on Palo Verde Avenue just north of Stearns Street.

Chef Vinod’s grasps his patrons with vegetarian food that is some of the best in the city. Even more, Vinod’s wife works as a doctor in the building so they can both promote health through food and direct care: a win-win no matter how you dice it. Vinod’s much-loved Maharaja Burrito—a carb-on-carb masterpiece where turmeric rice and chunks of paneer are stuffed into a massive flour tortilla—was once named one of the best burritos in the country while they have continually been on Yelp!’s Top 100 list.


Cinnamon roll from Sweet Jill’s

3201 E. Anaheim

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Jill Kinney Pharis of Sweet Jill’s icing cinnamon rolls. Photo by Sarah Bennett.

Yes, there are a handful of contemporary bakeries on this list—but no discussion of the Long Beach food scene history would be complete without noting that for anyone in the shore, the waft of baked sugar, butter, and cinnamon through the air at 5:30AM feels like a warm hug.

Jill Kinney Pharis is the owner and founder of Sweet Jill’s Bakery, which opened in 1987. Learning to bake farm favorites from her grandmother throughout her childhood, she perfected the old-fashioned cinnamon roll, the staple of the shop.


Chile cheese fries at Louis Burger III

555 Atlantic Ave.

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The city’s best chili cheese fries with a burger (and pastrami burritos if you so please)? Win, win, win. Photo by Brian Addison.

With the shuttering of Golden Burger earlier this year, the importance of these largely immigrant-led diners that have served Long Beach for decades become all the more important in our conversatin about local food. Given this, I should begin by at least giving a shout-out to one of the longtime staples of comfort food in my life (and countless others) here in Long Beach: the stellar, no-place-like-teenage-nostalgia, late-night-drunken-solace that are Louis Burger III’s chili cheese fries.

Yes, you can add pastrami. Sure, you can go all out with the DUI fries version, slathered in bacon and jalapeños and pastrami and yellow peppers (and for that version, I actually suggest Golden Burgers over Louis).

But the plain, good ol’ chili cheese fries never fail me—and intoxicated or not, it’s worth every damn calorie.


Spicy chicken chile verde omelette from The Coffee Cup Cafe

3734 E. Fourth St.

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The spicy chicken chile verde omelette from The Coffee Cup. Photo by Brian Addison.

The Coffee Cup has long been one of our city’s staple—and its defining dish for decades has been their spicy chicken chile verde omelette.

The mood of the masterful breakfast slayers in the kitchen is what determines the heat of chile verde itself: sometimes it packs a severe punch while other days it seems a bit more under control. Either way, the slather of bright green atop folded egg and melted cheese creates an addicting combo. Pro tip? Ask for the potatoes well-done and a side of sour cream; they act as break-givers to your tongue should the sauce be too spicy for your taste.

Ask for the potatoes well-done and you have yourself a damn near perfect breakfast.


Table-top grilled meats from Sura Korean BBQ

621 Atlantic Ave.

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Sura Korean BBQ’s pork belly is cut particularly thick to allow a nice browning while staying moist. Photos by Brian Addison.

Sura Korean BBQ has long been the steward of Korean cuisine in Long Beach, largely responsible for not only introducing residents and visitors alike to the vast depth of Korean food but also finding ways to connect with the community via that very food. And its table top grills, installed on the patio tables earlier this year, are the result of a long held dream from its owners, Claire Kim and Brandon Sugano.

The result of the patio table-side grills has been an astounding stand of support: You will often find lines for the patio space on the weekend while the indoors crowd remains unbothered by potential smoke and scents, allowing the space to expand hours across the board, including 11:30PM on Fridays and Saturdays (which follows a growing trend of restaurants trying to have later operating hours—they just need the support from their patrons to keep it up).

Scouring the grills, you will notice a variety of meats: From pork jowl and pork belly to thinly sliced Angus brisket and full-on ribeye steaks.


Barbecue from Battambong BBQ

Various locations; check Instagram

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A plate of smoked goodness from Battambong BBQ. Photo by Brian Addison/Eater LA.

Chad “The Cambodian Cowboy” Phuong, needs no introduction after he exploded on the scene with his masterful fusion barbecue.

As a refugee and pitmaster hailing from both Cambodia and the panhandle of Texas, respectively, he has found a way to meld two very disparate cultures creating a cuisine that feels uniquely Long Beach. He plays with Khmer flavors such as lemongrass and kampot black pepper, the latter of which is pervasive among his smoked meats. The kampot pepper is spicier compared to the ubiquitous tellicherry which has a more citrusy body, lending a bolder finish on the palate. 

All of his food is noteworthy: The brisket. The ribs. And especially the smoked twako. This beef, galangal, and fermented rice sausage is typically grilled or fried—Phuong tosses them into the smoker which subdues the acidity and creates sausage that’s bright and aromatic. 


Chicken pot pie bites from The Ordinarie

210 The Promenade N.

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The chicken pot pie bites from The Ordinarie.

The Ordinarie—pronounced like the word “ordinary”—harkens to the historical term ordinarie, or a place that was legally required in American settlements as a space which provided sustenance and civic engagement. A pub. A tavern. No matter how it is diced, historically, it has defined what American hospitality stems from. And Irish native and owner Christy Caldwell wants to exude just that: American hospitality a la The Mighty Pub.

There is no dish the better exemplifies why Long Beach loves The Ordinarie so much as their chicken pot pie bites. Delicate, flaky, buttery, everything you want and expect from any iteration of a pot pie, but they create empanada-like packages filled with bright peas, carrots and chicken that have a genuinely surprising but wonderful acidity. The bites are layered atop a healthy portion of perfectly peppery, thick gravy that provides a balance to the creaminess and brightness of the pockets themselves.


Carne asada chorreadas from Tacos La Carreta

3401 E. 60th St.

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Carne asada chorreadas from Tacos La Carreta. Courtesy of business.

I first wrote about taquero José Manuel Morales Bernal Jr. back in 2020 when they first moved to Long Beach—and discovered that much of what José learned he knows from his father, who was born in Mazatlán, the Sinaloa city whose love for carne asada is so pervasive that every single urban sector has the sweet smoke and savor of carne asada on the grill.

As a way to kill time over the weekend, their popular, Compton-based popup was an instant hit—but the pandemic eventually altered that. As first reported by Bill Esparza over at Eater LA, the pandemic is what caused Junior lost his nine-to-five position handling linen—and knew dependence on such jobs wouldn’t be secure enough in our pandemic-centric world. With that, he has now decided to offer his (and his father’s, though he is retired) famed tacos in a more regular fashion thanks to a food truck outing at 69th Street in North Long Beach.

Since then, they’ve been put on Bill Addison’s Best 101 Restaurants by the Los Angeles Times. They’ve won LA TACO’s TACO MADNESS.

True to the Sinaloense style, Morales’ biggest star is his carne asada chorreada: A thick tortilla is topped with a hefty scoop of the truck’s masterful carne asada, lathered in Morales’ pork lard-based sauce and onions.


Lebanese potatoes from Open Sesame

5215 E. 2nd St.

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The spicy garlic potatoes are synonymous with Open Sesame in Long Beach. Photo by Brian Addison.

For restaurateur and Open Sesame owner Ali Kobeissi, his Lebanese staple in Belmont Shore surpassed a quarter of a century of serving the community. 

“Open Sesame really began in 1989,” Ali said. “Honestly, I got a bit lost on my motorcycle and ended up in Belmont Shore. It was so walkable, businesses pushed together—it felt like home. It felt like Beirut.”

This combination of the high-inducing experience that is falling for Long Beach paired with a lack of solid Lebanese food proved a bit serendipitous. And this was even if Ali was unaware that the Belmont Shore was the place that introduced Long Beach to Lebanese food. George Mitri opened Sahara in the Shore in 1976, offering the city its first taste of falafel, shawarma, and baba ghanouj.

Come a decade after falling for the Shore, Ali would open Open Sesame. And surely, tawook and hummus became hits but nothing defined the space more than their spicy Lebanese potatoes.

For Brian Addison’s full feature on Open Sesame, click here.


Dirty Elvis wings from Shlap Muan

2150 E. South St.

When I first wrote about this tiny-but-mighty wing shop in North Long Beach for Eater LA, the story was an ode to the symbiotic relationship between the Cambodian community and Long Beach: Owner Hawk Tea had to balance many things while being raised in his parents’ North Long Beach Chinese-American restaurant—his Chinese ethnicity, Cambodian culture, American citizenship, search for self…—but ultimately, it was his eventual take over that very restaurant that has proven to be his most fulfilling endeavor to date: Eschewing the majority of the space’s old-school menu and rebranding as Shlap Muan (“chicken wing” in Khmer), Tea has created a mini-wing empire that honors everything about his multi-cultural life—especially the Cambodian side.

And his Dirty Elvis wings—a fire-licked, wok-ed out set of wings with Tea’s proprietary master sauce that has layers of soy, fish sauce, and sugar—are the perfect example of how Tea has harnessed his memories, identities, and love for his parents into a single dish.

For Brian Addison’s latest feature on Shlap Muan, click here.


Lomo saltado from Casa Chaskis

2380 Santa Fe Ave.

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The famed lomo saltado from Casa Chaski’s in West Long Beach. Photo by Brian Addison/Visit Long Beach.

Due to colonization, global trade, and emigration, Peruvian cuisine became entangled with Spanish, Italian, West African, Chinese, and Japanese cultures—hey there, Sushi Nikkei—creating a unique environment for naturally occurring fusion cuisine to develop. This is why I enjoy going to Peruvian restaurants—you can order multiple items and they can feel disparate at face value, but the flavors meld together harmoniously when you decide to take a bite. 

This is why AgustĂ­n Romo started Casa Chaskis in Westside, he was enamored with the flavors of Peru and wanted to bring them home to Long Beach. From lomo saltado to cocina chifa, he’s been showcasing the breadth of the what the cuisine has to offer. 

One of my favorite dishes is the tallarines verdes con bistec apanado which is comprised of linguine coated in a Peruvian-style pesto and paired with a lightly-breaded, pan-fried flank steak. The pesto itself is a bright green, effusing spinach and basil—with a creamy mouthfeel from the queso fresco and walnuts blended in. 

Additional suggested dishes: arroz con mariscos Norteño; lomo saltado; empanadas; chaufa


Green salsa from Lola’s Mexican Cuisine

2030 E. 4th St. | 4140 Atlantic Ave.

long beach food
The green salsa from Lola’s Mexican Cuisine. Photo by Brian Addison.

While I would argue that the birria could also be on this list—matriarch and founder of Lola’s, Maria Delores Navarro, referred to by friends and family simply as “Lola,” introduced Long Beach to birria long before the craze—there is no question that their famed green salsa.

Surely, there is a sense of pride from owner and chef Luis Navarro, son of Lola, and the obvious growth the space has seen: Changes to its interiors, the opening of a second location up in Bixby Knolls, constant menu changes and food updates and specials…

But these treasured recipes, like the green salsa, remain a definitive part of the legend that has now become Lola’s.

For Brian Addison’s latest feature on Lola’s Mexican Cuisine, click here.


Nixtamal Queen from Gusto Bread

2710 E. 4th St.

The Nixtamal Queen from Gusto Bread. Photo by Lorena Caro.
The Nixtamal Queen from Gusto Bread. Photo by Lorena Caro.

Here’s how James Tir described Gusto’s Nixtamal Queen: “Whether Gusto Bread, the lauded Indigenous-meets-European panaderĂ­a, is dough master Arturo Enciso’s magnum opus remains to be seen—however, it’s undoubtedly one of the best bakeries in the Southern California region. The bakery churns out conchas, choribuns, pastelitos, and more, often selling out by midday. 

“My go-to item is their nixtamal queen which smashes the concept of a kouign-amann together with house made nixtamal creating a wholly new pastry. Its layers are fragile yet dense, fracturing in parts, bouncy in others, succumbing to a subtle corn masa aroma. 

“And after their recent space expansion which brings Cafe Cuate’s Oaxacan coffee to the table, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better pairing with the Queen.”


Burnt cheese tacos from Chinitos Tacos

11130 Del Amo Blvd.

long beach restaurants
The burnt cheese taco with lemongrass asada from Chinitos Tacos. Photo by Brian Addison.

I’ve always been frustrated by the lack of love Chinitos gets (even after multiple inclusions from me on my underrated restaurants lists and a glowing feature in the Los Angeles Times by the much-missed Patricia Escárcega).

It could very well be his location: Lakewood, love it or hate it, is different—as in it is much quieter and slower. While the patronage was loyal, Krouch found himself closing early—effectively shutting down his dream of being the late-night-go-to taco joint—and not feeling much love from Long Beach. And if the mentions in my group are any indication, there is a partial truth to that: Chinitos is, somehow, vastly underrated.

The blunt reality is that while Chinitos might be in Lakewood, it is one hundred percent birthed out of Long Beach: Krouch, a Long Beach native, has been serving up some of the region’s most distinct, lavishly layered tacos with his melding of Cambodian and Southeast Asian flavors with Mexican grub, where rounds of melted cheese—burnt to a brown, crêpe-thin crisp—act as taco shells and lemongrass and Chinese 5 spice blend into meats.

And it has come to define how Cambodian business owners have shifted the culinary scene here for decades.

For Brian Addison’s full feature on Chinitos Tacos, click here.


Rex’s Po’ Boy at Sal’s Gumbo Shack

6148 Long Beach Blvd. | 4470 California Pl.

Rex's Special Po' Boy from Sal's Gumbo Shack. Photo by Brian Addison.
Rex’s Special Po’ Boy from Sal’s Gumbo Shack. Photo by Brian Addison.

Sal’s Gumbo Shack owner Sally Bevans is nothing short of the prime example of taking ownership of one’s life: After living a life in the corporate workspace only to find it questioned when a new owner took over, Sally took what she had saved—a nice chunk of nearly $40K—and began focusing on turning her gumbo into a bonafide business.

One of her earliest fans? None other than Mayor Rex Richardson, who was anything but when he first met Sally as a neighbor: Young and ambitious, the future mayor would depend on Sally and her skills at the stove to stave his hunger—but not without his own suggestions, including the brilliant idea of combining the catfish and shrimp po’ boys into one.

The result? A perfectly salty umami bomb stuffed between the slice of a starchy white bread roll and topped with a creamy rémoulade and lettuce.

For Brian Addison’s full feature on Sal’s Gumbo Shack, click here.


Quesadilla de maiz from Los Reyes del Taco Sabroso

2345 E. Anaheim St.

los reyes del tacos sabroso
Large, corn tortilla quesadillas from Los Reyes are stuffed with lettuce and crema. Photo by Brian Addison.

Tucked into an unassuming building at the northwest corner of Junipero and Anaheim is what could easily be Long Beach’s most dedicated and beautiful ode to the vast, region stretching food of Mexico, with its heart at Mexico City: Los Reyes del Taco Sabroso.

While they have what many consider the classics and the trends—from chilaquiles, definitively some of the best in the city, and carne asada to California burritos and quesabirria—it is their focus on the food of CDMX where the Montesinos family truly shines.

It is in their quesadilla de maiz, a massive, nearly-foot long, hand made corn tortilla, stuffed with cheese imported from Mexico and your choice of meat (or, my personal favorite, huitlacoche). But honoring the street food culture of Mexico City, loads of shredded lettuce, crema, and queso fresco crumbles are added. The result? Hot meat and cheese meets cold lettuce and crema in a wonder of a folded treasure, where an earthy, crisped-to-perfection corn tortilla carrying a savory bomb of flavors and textures, temperatures and sensations.

For Brian Addison’s full feature on Los Reyes, click here.


The Lunch Burger from Hamburgers Nice

1322 Coronada Ave.

best burgers long beach
The Lunch Burger from Hamburgers Nice. Photo by Brian Addison.

What is there to say about Chef Jairo Bogarín’s genuinely stellar smash-burger operation? The best burger in Long Beach? In terms of quality and cost, could very well be.

His “Lunch Burger” is simultaneously stupidly simple—two patties, American cheese, some sauce, pickles, onions, jalapeños—but packs such an astounding flavor punch that there is no disbelief in the fact that the popup perpetually sells out.

Yes, Hamburgers Nice has what is basically a permanent spot every Thursday morning (8AM to 2PM, serving their equally stellar breakfast burger that has a dollop of grape jelly and I promise you that it won’t anger you) and Friday for the dinner crowd (from 5PM to 9PM, often accompanied by a partnership or featuring a special burger) at Good Time, which makes the burger popup come full circle given they used to serve at this very spot when it was Commodity. But they also venture elsewhere, so check out their Instagram regularly.


Breakfast burrito from Ma ‘n Pa Grocery

346 Roycroft Ave.

long beach food
Chorizo and bacon breakfast burrito from Ma ‘n Pa Grocery. Photo by Austin M./Yelp!

Surely, this space would have been held by Tito’s—but since switching owners, the space just hasn’t quite captured the essence it once had as Long Beach’s best breakfast burrito. And while Ma ‘n Pa would have to definitely fight for that title—I think the current best breakfast burrito belongs to SALA—there is no doubt that this space has been one of the OGs that harnessed our love for the breakfast burrito.

Open daily at 6:30AM and just a few blocks away from the Colorado Lagoon and Marine Stadium, it is always worth a visit.


Butter chicken pot pie from Cali Chilli

4111 N. Viking Way 

long beach food
The butter chicken pot pie from Cali Chilli in East Long Beach. Photo by Brian Addison.

Cali Chilli is Long Beach’s self-described “inauthentic” Indian restaurant, offering up a wonderful fusion of flavors from across the globe: Korean-inspired sticky ribs, quesadillas with chicken tikka, a gooey lasagna made with paneer and eggplant…

And while there is much to rave about—one is unlikely to receive a remotely bad reception from its stellar General Manager Vijay Rajput—there is something beautifully comforting about their butter chicken pot pie.

Coming out in a piping hot, burnished clay pot, its top a golden brown dome of puff pastry, this is a dish that while best for a day amid the rain and cold, is so delicious that it defies seasons.

Offering up some of the best butter chicken I’ve had in the States—the birthed-in-Delhi dish that has come to be one of the most popular and recognized dishes in the world, albeit it one of the most arduous to traditionally produce—its creamy, savory, and succulent center is the perfect companion to the buttery, crispy layer of puff pastry.

The only thing I ask? Someone create a savory butter chicken danish because that would be my morning’s dream grab-n-go.

For Brian Addison’s full feature on Cali Chilli for Eater LA, click here.


Cajun fries from MVPs Grill

2742 E 4th St. | 937 Redondo Ave. | 5484 E Stearns St.

long beach food
Cajun fries from MVP Grill. Photo by Sonja Sky.

When Shillelagh announced they were leaving their longtime home next door to dive staple O’Connell’s nearly a decade ago, I was admittedly sad because it harkened the move of MVPs OG 4th Street location across from The Coffee Cup. The space, attached to a house no less, had a vibe like no other—but when I also heard that MVPs would be moving from their home westerly on 4th, I was happy.

With two other locations in Long Beach, MVPs has long been serving up some of the best fries around: their Cajun fries, which require a side of thick Ranch for the perfect bite.


Blueberry donut from Knead

3490 E. 7th St.

long beach food
Knead’s blueberry donut. Photo by Brian Addison.

Donut making has a rich history in Cambodian culture and, therefore, a rich history in Long Beach given the Cambodian community’s extensive influence on local culture after escaping the Khmer Rouge to build new roots here. It became a way for these immigrant families to sustain the future of their children while assimilating into a culture beyond opening a noodle shack.

Enter Knead’s blueberry donut, defining the donuttery’s stake as one of the best.

Taking a glance, one expects the typical, heavy-cake that comes with the history of this esteemed piece of fried dough. But like my go-to Sidecar’s famed huckleberry donut, Knead’s blueberry concoction is light, sitting perfectly between cake and donut—and therefore, creating the perfect blueberry donut. On top of it all, they offer taro milk tea, Vietnamese iced coffee, boba, and a plethora of other Asia-centric sweet drinks on top of some spectacular house-made croissant breakfast sammies.

Brian Addison
Brian Addison
Brian Addison has been a writer, editor, and photographer for more than a decade, covering everything from food and culture to transportation and housing. In 2015, he was named Journalist of the Year by the Los Angeles Press Club and has since garnered 25 nominations and three additional wins. In 2019, he was awarded the Food/Culture Critic of the Year across any platform at the National Arts & Entertainment Journalism Awards.

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