Missed out on Brian Addison’s Favorite Things of past? We got you covered—just click here.
Too many years back, I wrote a very self-indulgent listicle that was about so-called “essential” Long Beach dishes; dishes that I loved and could depend on as long as that place existed—and I wrote it because there’s something so elemental and useful about a specific great dish at a specific place. It was less about some grander proclamation than it was about, “This is just great food.” (I’ve done a much more comprehensive, similar list since then.)
And after a year of not doing such lists, I want to return to it. Not some grand list of “essential dishes”—that is too hard of a burden to put on a restaurant: You better have this and you better have it all the time. But for now, in this moment, I am happy to share some of my favorite things.
In other words: Why not just own the moment? Without further ado, here are the favorite things I’m eating right now…
Tomato carpaccio from Telefèric
6420 E. Pacific Coast Hwy. #160
There is no question that—especially since its opening—Telefèric has only grown in quality and execution. Their cockail menu is continually shifting. The now host monthly flamenco performances with a Californian legend. And their food, in particular, has grown in consistency and quality. Their paella? Unquestionably the best in Long Beach, especially their paella negra, where rice doused in squid ink is layered with bits of octopus, scallops, shrimp, and clams.
Of course, they have the hyper-traditional down—but where they’ve particularly shone is when they step outside the confines of tradition to create new ones. Like their spectacular tomato carpaccio. Massive rounds of heirloom tomatoes sit atop a hyper-savory, creamy tuna escabeche before being topped with fresh tuna slices. It is then finished off with onions, capers, mint, and hefty drizzles of basil and red wine vinegar. Umami. Salty. Tangy. Gorgeous.
Capellini al ricci di mare from Michael’s on Naples
5620 E. 2nd St.
I’ve long extolled the virtues of the tasting menus at Michael’s on Naples, where Chef Eric Samaniego and general manager Massimo Arrone work together to create continually revolving foci on various Italian regions. This past month’s menu has been homed in on Sicily, where plates of octopus carpaccio, tuna with caponata, chickpea fritters…
But the stand-out dish—and one I will likely be begging for him to make again—was his angel hair pasta dish. House-made cappellini is doused in a sea urchin pesto of olive oil and bits of basil before being topped with a chunk of pure uni. The result is an umami bomb that is comfortably tucked in a wonderfully full mouth of pasta given just how much cappellini one can wrap around a fork for one bite.
Calamari French bean from Cali Chilli
4111 N. Viking Way
The constant evolution of Cali Chilli is one that is both understated and underrated: Upgrading to a full liquor license, they’ve fully dived into the world of cocktails. And under the guide of Michelin-level Chef Manjunath Mural since its opening, they have dabbled in chef’s tasting menus and a constant update of their menu (while holding onto staples like their butter chicken pot pie).
This most recent update is no exception, where lobster tails and chicken momos join tandoori seabass and dahi sev puri. But a particular is their calamari French bean, where strands of Korean squid and French green beans are fried and tossed with a lime aioli and a red pepper sauce that is as beautifully sweet as it is balanced.
Breakfast rice in a stone bowl from The Attic
3441 E. Broadway
While there is no question that Chef Cameron Slaugh’s (continually evolving) dinner menu at The Attic is one of the best in the city (as well as its cocktail program), there is a reason why their brunch is perpetually packed. And it goes beyond the stellar Bloody Mary menu that helped define the space in its early days. And it goes beyond having one of the best patios in the city. There is just about everything for everyone, whether you’re a Greens Girl bruncher or a hardcore Benedict Boy bruncher. (It must also be said: The Attic is home to the city’s best eggs Benedict).
A plate I continually dismissed was the aptly named “Breakfast Rice in a Stone Bowl” dish. And, much to my taste’s regret but stomach’s happiness, I have fallen upon this gem late. Layers of rice, andouille sausage, cilantro, and sweet soy are topped with sunny-side up eggs before being mixed tableside. My suggestion? Let it sit for a second—assured, it won’t get cold—to let the rice crisp up on the stone’s surface. You’ll be a happy deviator from the norms of the American breakfast.
Look for the full feature on The Attic’s brunch in the coming days.
$5 tostada from El Barrio Cantina
1731 E. 4th St.
There is something deeply resonant with the way Chef Ulises Pineda-Alfaro approaches his community. Long before the world’s economy was turned upside down due to a Trump-led tariff war, Chef Ulises simply looked around at his neighbors. And back in October, he understood that pinching pennies was far more on the rise than it had been since the pandemic. And with it, created an aptly titled Recession Menu.
Members of my food group know damn well how much I consistently praise this menu in the comment sections of posts asking for happy hours and affordable bites. And one of its most stellar offerings are its varieties of tostadas. Pictured is Chef Uli’s impeccable yuzu aguachile, where flayed shrimps are doused in layers of lime, cilantro, yuzu, and Serrano chiles. There’s a vegan ceviche offering with artichokes and jicama. A pulpo tostada with oregano and avocado that is underrated. And a version of their much-loved camaron marinero.
Even better? El Barrio serves this every day of the week from 3PM to 5:30PM and all day on Tuesdays.
M.issed out on Brian Addison’s Favorite Things of past? We got you covered—just click here
