Missed out on Brian Addison’s Favorite Things of past? We got you covered—just click here.

Too many years back, I wrote a very self-indulgent listicle that was about so-called “essential” Long Beach dishes; dishes that I loved and could depend on as long as that place existed—and I wrote it because there’s something so elemental and useful about a specific great dish at a specific place. It was less about some grander proclamation than it was about, “This is just great food.” (I’ve done a much more comprehensive, similar list since then.)

And after a year of not doing such lists, I want to return to it. Not some grand list of “essential dishes”—that is too hard of a burden to put on a restaurant: You better have this and you better have it all the time. But for now, in this moment, I am happy to share some of my favorite things.

In other words: Why not just own the moment? Without further ado, here are the favorite things I’m eating right now…

Korean tacos from Sura

621 Atlantic Ave.

Well over a decade ago, Sura had a weekly taco Tuesday that was pumping out everything from vegan shrimp tacos to bulgogi tacos. It was, for its time, a rarity that was only shared with the rightfully loved Kogi from Chef Roy Choi. And when it came to innovations like vegan shrimp, Sura was outright a lone wolf. 

Now, a beautiful, full-circle moment: Sura’s collaboration with Sonoratown wasn’t just good. It was stellar and, in a bold proclamation, surpasses Kogi as a quintessential SoCal taco creation.

Created for one day only to celebrate Sura’s legacy business status, one starts with Sonoratown’s gorgeous, lard-laden tortillas as the base. You had an option of beef bulgogi, spicy pork, vegan shrimp, or tofu with an array of accoutrements. A kimchi slaw (made with green cabbage to honor Sonoratown rather than the traditional Napa cabbage). The savory-sweetness of Mayak sauce. Some Buldak sauce for serious heat. Cilantro. And a calamansi wedge thanks to a local patron’s backyard tree.

Wondrous little folds of perfection.

Somlar machu kreung (សម្លម្ជូរគ្រឿង) from Koh Ruessei

816 E. Anaheim St.

I have long been hesitant to share my love of Koh Ruessei because, well, it is very much a space I like to keep to myself. Much in the vein of Crystal Cambodian Thai—where I’ve also praised their version of this very dish—Koh is a home-like space. You will find family members wrapping num ansom chrouk (នំអន្សមជ្រូក)—sticky rice stuffed with pork belly and mung beans before being firmly wrapped in banana leaves—while you can eat fried instestines, beef anchovy, and quail late into the night.

One of their finest dishes? Somlar machu kreung, a bright, sour soup whose tamarind base makes way for chunks of beef, water spinach, intestine, and tripe. Rich, wonderful with beer, and warming as it gets, it might even be superior to Crystal’s version. Looks like I’ll just have to continually get both to get a final verdict on that.

Asparagus from Alder & Sage

366 Cherry Ave.

Chef Matthew Roberts continues to his weekend-only dinner service that launched back in March, each month bringing a new menu. May was no exception to Chef Matthew’s farmers’ market-centric, Californian take on cuisine. An incredible King salmon—first catch of the year—layered with black lentils. A smoked duck leg sitting atop golden cherries dusted with morita chile. An octopus that my Dad said was one of the best in his lifetime…

But then there was the humble asparagus. A spread of house-made farmers cheese—ricotta-like in texture, whole milk-y in mouth-feel—underneath perfectly tender, crisp asparagus. Stalks dusted with house-made dukkah, cumin and fennel barging forward. And then a poached egg.

Marvelously May in every great way possible.

“Long Beach Dirtbag” from Grill ‘Em All

5411 E Ocean Blvd. (on the sand)

I am uncertain whether Proudly Serving or Grill ‘Em All is home to the best chili burger—and I say that as someone who has long been chasing Proudly Serving’s chili since they had a pop-up at Beachwood before it became ISM Brewing. (Thank the burger gods they now have a Long Beach location.)

Grill ‘Em All—which I honestly believe has officially surpassed Sideburns as the city’s most underrated burger joint—is the on-the-beach, beers-and-burgers joint that has some incredible offerings. The Napalm and The Ozzy—the latter formally sanctioned by the Osbourne family as their official burger—are noted staples.

But when owner Matthew Chernus and Chef Niki Grasso opted to shutter their Alhambra location and open in Long Beach, they knew they had to create a Long Beach-specific burger. Enter the “Long Beach Dirtbag,” an ode to Coney Island-style chili smothered with bacon and cheese. It’s a savory-lover’s sonnet and a chili-enthusiast’s dream.

Look for the full feature on Grill ‘Em All in the coming days.

Vespa from Anna’s Pizza Joint

5315 E. 2nd St.

“I’m big on salty, sweet, acidic flavor balances. Crunchy, soft—you want everything in one bite.”

These are the words of Chef Adam Crisafulli, the head honcho in the kitchen at Anna’s Pizza Joint in Belmont Shore. Perhaps nothing showcases this culinary philosophy more than in the wonderful “Vespa” sandwich. Yes, yes, the place is known for its pies—do not skip the recently added Detroit-style slices—but their sandwiches are just genuinely good.

This mortadella-and-soppressata layered wonder is stuffed with Parmesan pâté, roasted peppers, toasted pistachios for crunch, and pepperoncini for brightness.

For the full feature on Anna’s Pizza Joint, click here.

Missed out on Brian Addison’s Favorite Things of past? We got you covered—just click here.