Thursday, May 30, 2024

‘Gothtrompo’ L.A. legends Evil Cooks collab with Long Beach’s El Barrio for Cinco de Mayo


In Los Angeles, they are known as the Gothtrompo pioneers, using their own take on the Yucateco adobo-like paste called recado negro to create pitch black versions of pastor that are as visually luring as they are tasty—and the husband-and-wife team that is Elvia Huerta and Alex Garcia of Evil Cooks have built a cult-like following rightfully, even scoring a jealousy-inducing spot on the Los Angeles Times’s Best Restaurants list despite not having a brick-and-mortar.

And now, thanks to the team at El Barrio Cantina on 4th Street, Long Beach will experience its first taste of Evil Cooks by way of a Cinco de Mayo celebration dubbed SinCo de Mayo. 

Courtesy of El Barrio Cantina.

And yes, the collaboration will feature a taco with the pair’s famed pastor negro, along with what looks to be a tour of Mexico.

We’ll have the return of the tlayuda from the great state of Oaxaca (which, if my estimates are right, haven’t been seen since the much-missed Oaxaca Mio sat on 10th Street at Orange Avenue over a decade ago). 

Enchiladas Rioverdenses will be served, hailing from the city of Rioverde in San Luis Potosí and hailed as potato-and-sausage bits of wonder.

A play on tacos sudado (or tacos al vapor or tacos de canasta or…) will be served with chicharrón.

The list goes on and on: a version of the South-central Mexican staple that is the chalupa, campechana tostada (where various sea critters sit atop a tostada), Baja-style fish tacos…

In other words: It is not only a collaboration I highly co-sign but one that will likely sell out. El Barrio has plans upon sell-out—they’ll return to a menu of pastor tacos, quesadillas, and mulitas—but I suggest you not miss out on the special menu.

The Evil Cooks collab with El Barrio Cantina will take place at 1731 E. 4th Street from 4PM until 8PM/sell-out.

Brian Addison
Brian Addison
Brian Addison has been a writer, editor, and photographer for more than a decade, covering everything from food and culture to transportation and housing. In 2015, he was named Journalist of the Year by the Los Angeles Press Club and has since garnered 25 nominations and three additional wins. In 2019, he was awarded the Food/Culture Critic of the Year across any platform at the National Arts & Entertainment Journalism Awards.


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