Missed out on Brian Addison’s Favorite Things of past? We got you covered—just click here.
Too many years back, I wrote a very self-indulgent listicle that was about so-called “essential” Long Beach dishes; dishes that I loved and could depend on as long as that place existed—and I wrote it because there’s something so elemental and useful about a specific great dish at a specific place. It was less about some grander proclamation than it was about, “This is just great food.” (I’ve done a much more comprehensive, similar list since then.)
And after a year of not doing such lists, I want to return to it. Not some grand list of “essential dishes”—that is too hard of a burden to put on a restaurant: You better have this and you better have it all the time. But for now, in this moment, I am happy to share some of my favorite things.
In other words: Why not just own the moment? Without further ado, here are the favorite things I’m eating right now…
Fattet jaj (دجاج) from Ammatoli
315 The Promenade N.
Chef Dima Habibeh—who, joining her team, was just recognized as a semifinalist at the James Beard Awards for the space’s hospitality—introduced this dish to the menu last year, joining the addition of shish barak. (Another personal favorite of mine.) But this one is, simply put, right up there with her Palestinian musakhan (مسخّن) and sayadieh (صيادية) as one of the most comforting dishes to experience at Ammatoli.
Nearly every culture has its version of chicken and rice—from Hainan chicken of Singapore to biryani of India to arroz con pate de papa of nearly every Latin American country—and this is the version from the Levant. Shredded rotisserie chicken and rice, layered with Aleppo pepper, crunchy pita chip squares, all in an ultra-bright, creamy yogurt sauce, where slivers of toasted almond and pomegranate seeds highlight the earthiness of the rice or the vibrancy of the yogurt.
And during cold days, it is especially welcoming—even to the soul being crushed by our daily realities.
Regional Thai tasting menus from Manaow
3618 E. Broadway
Long Beach is home to some fabulous Thai, led by Chiang Rai, the Michelin-recognized Zaferia space that is consistently drawing lines out the door. But we have some very under-the-radar Thai joints, led by Manaow, the not-Michelin-recognized Belmont Heights space that is consistently showcasing the regionality of Thai food.
Take, for example, their regional Thai tasting menus. Represented by Central—called the Bangkok set featuring galanga soup and a chicken Thai omelette—or Northeastern—the Isan set with papaya and Crying Tiger salads—or Northern—with the Chiangmai set featuring kao soi, pork belly, crunchy egg noodles—and, in the case of my last visit, Southern Thailand.
Smoked lamb shank from Selva
4137 E. Anaheim
Are the next three entries fair? Not really, as you cannot go to these spaces and order them any longer. But it is part of my effort to showcase the wonderful world of Long Beach’s special menus and the food our chefs create at special events—in this case, Chef Carlos Jurado’s absolutely stellar smoked’n’braised lamb shank atop queso fresco polenta. Which, as luck may have it, you can taste at Selva: He is running the special this entire weekend.
For those in the know, Dux in Tux—the annual gala for the famed Anaheim Ducks hockey team—is one of Orange County’s largest philanthropic events. Heavily padded donors buy tables that feature a chef at each to cook for fourteen guests. Joining them is an Anaheim Ducks player—or coach or broadcaster—that sits tableside.
And this year, Long Beach’s culinary prowess was well represented. Chef Johnathan Benvenuti of Bar Becky. Marlena’s Chef Michael Flores. Chef Carlos Jurado of Selva. Chef Jason Witzl of Ellie’s. Owner Francesco Zimone of L’Antica da Michele… All brought flavor and finesse to the team’s signature black-tie gala. But Chef Carlos’s incredible smoked lamb shank—served with an array of arepas, pickled veggies, and various Colombian sauces—was outright out of this world.
Ramen batayaki from Sushi Nikkei
3819 Atlantic Ave. | 5020 E. 2nd St.
I’ve continually encouraged people to attend Sushi Nikkei’s annual birthday celebration menus—the one for their Belmont Shore location just happened back in December, while the one for its Bixby Knolls home is always in January. And that is because it is one of the few times when Chef Eduardo Chang Ogata flexes beyond the menu that has come to define Sushi Nikkei.
This menu—arguably his best anniversary menu, with stand-out pieces like his A5 Wagyu nigiri topped with quail yolk and a passionfruit-laden roll—featured what I would call his most comforting dish yet. Ramen batayaki. Shrimp, octopus, and squid are layered with bits of veggies—snappy snow peas and strands of green onion—in a Japanese butter-fish broth cream sauce. Perfect for the winter months. Dangerously devourable.
Headcheese katsu sandwich from Chef Melissa Ortiz
served at a special popup at SALA
There are many great things to be found in the tragedy that struck SALA in Bixby Knolls, the night before Chef Melissa Ortiz was to offer a special pop-up collaboration dinner with the space’s Chef Jose Molina. And that is that the community has come together in solidarity to help SALA get back on their feet ASAP. More on that in a sec…
The sad part? No one will get to try this monstrously masterful creation that is Chef Melissa’s headcheese katsu sandwich, which was to be served at the pop-up. (It will not be featured on the menu she has planned this weekend at Hartland’s in benefit of SALA.) Yes, you read that right. A pig’s head boiled to the point of disintegration. Then cobbled back together in a terrine mold for the most gelatinous, collagen-filled Frankenstein-gone-foodie assembly of edible art you’ve yet seen. Then breaded and fried. Stuffed between buttered brioche slices and slices of slightly sweet cucumber and slaw. I want this textural landmine of a creature to resurrect at some point.
Until then, Chef Melissa and the SALA crew will be hosting a pop-up at Hartland’s where all the proceeds go toward paying staff and covering existing invoices. The pop-up will be hosted at Hartland’s, located inside the 1900 Ocean Blvd. residential tower, on Saturday, Jan. 24 and Sunday, Jan 25. 4PM to 5PM on each day will be wine hour while 5PM to 10PM will offer food. Enter through the lobby and take the stairs to the right to the next level or the elevator to the second floor.
Missed out on Brian Addison’s Favorite Things of past? We got you covered—just click here.
