Tuesday, December 17, 2024

Angel’s Share in Belmont Shore pivots and adapts: ‘We want to be a part of the community’

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Angel’s Share was one of the quickest turnovers we’ve seen in Long Beach restaurant history. In the span of about a month, owner Jack Walls transformed the former Tap House space into his whiskey lounge and beer bar. The space has certainly had its ups and downs, with Chef Melissa Ramsay stepping down earlier this year.

But for Jack, with Chef Josh Cicchetti (formerly of Shady Grove Foods) at the helm and new bar lead Rachel Zimmerman, he is understanding that adapting and pivoting are essential parts of the long-term game.

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Angel’s Share in Belmont Shore. Photo by Brian Addison.

Angel’s Share, like many new restaurants, is going through changes.

Angel’s Share opened with fanfare: With a fire-like speed in opening, Jack tapped Chef Melissa Ramsey to head the kitchen. And it was met with much applause. But ultimately, Chef Melissa had to make the choice to walk away, ultimately “truly proud of my contributions as their executive chef.” And for Jack, while the loss was hard, it also meant an opportunity to adapt.

“Chef Melissa was amazing—I have not one bad word to say about her,” Jack happily says. “Sometimes, things don’t work out—and that is okay, even in a business as tumultuous as this. You can easily spend a lot of money—and I admit: I spent a lot of money.”

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Fried goat cheese balls with honey and green apple from Angel’s Share. Photo by Brian Addison.

Firstly, let’s applaud both Chef Melissa and Jack: Each left on terms where they understood they did not vibe together—and that is okay in this industry. The blunt reality is that often we want to paint a black-and-white picture that is often coated in negativity when, ultimately, we should be allowing our talent to bounce around between employers to find the right fit rather than comingle in mini-dramas. It allowed two great things to happen: Chef Melissa to focus on her catering and for Jack to figure out how to pivot Angel’s Share.

This deserves applause—and something that is openly discussed more often.

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Three varieties of chicken wings have proven popular at Angel’s Share. Photo by Brian Addison.

And with that, Angel’s Share looks forward.

“We’re discovering that there is a balance between the high-end and the accessible,” Jack said. “Our chicken wings? They’ve been one of our bestsellers. Our bone-in tomahawk? It was so popular on Thursdays that we also made it a weekend special.”

Yup: Angel’s Share is balancing chicken wings on one hand and $120 48-ounce Thursday-night-only tomahawks on the other ($140 on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays). In the words of Chef Josh: “We are ultimately here for the customers. If we’re a chicken shop by day and a steakhouse by night, so be it. They want chicken wings all the time? We’ll happily accommodate that.”

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Baked mac’n’cheese from Angel’s Share. Photo by Brian Addison.

This dichotomy is something that has come to define 2024: People have largely been driven by the extremes. In the words of a Hoboken, New Jersey chef and restaurateur airing his grievances on TikTok—who owns multiple “in-the-middle restaurants that aren’t aiming to be grossly cheap nor a Michelin-rate place”—it seems patrons only want one of two things. Either “a $500-per-person dinner you can’t experience elsewhere or Taco Bell.”

Long Beach restaurateur Luis Navarro of The Social List and Lola’s echoed this: “We’ve seen the dip in our business and have figured out way to pivot while fast food lines have never been longer and ultra-exclusive spaces are sold-out for months. Where is the patronage for that sweet middle? The consistent places that are meant to be enjoyed a few times a month? I hope people don’t forget those places to the point where they shutter.”

And Angel’s Share is balancing just that.

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Angel Share’s 48-ounce tomahawk steak is as popular as the chicken wings. Photos by Brian Addison.

Angel’s Share is part of a larger renaissance taking over the Shore across the past few years.

To look at the 2nd Street of 2019 and the 2nd Street of 2024 is to look at two very different Shores. The Belmont Shore of 2019 was looking rather grim: Staples like Papalucci’s and La Strada permanently closed up shop. More and more vacant storefronts appeared, giving the neighborhood—for the first time in decades—a sense that part of their tie to Long Beach culture was being slowly taken away.

Come 2024, Belmont Shore isn’t just doing good and thriving; it is well into a two-year renaissance that has seen an entire shift.

North Hollywood-based Republic of Pie and Kauai-based taro donut shop Holey Grail both recently opened. There is an extension of Orange County’s Ribbro that opened. The Win~Dow, Venice’s smash burger concept birthed in 2019 in a parking lot, has officially opened its first Long Beach location in Belmont Shore in the former Archibald’s space. L’Antica da Michele—of the famed Napoli pizzeria—expanded into the Shore. Then there’s been Goodies. Le Macaron. Breakfast Republic. Sweeten. Nick the Greek. Northern Cafe. Sushi Nikkei’s second location in the city…

It’s a beautiful thing to witness.

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Bar lead Rachel Zimmerman has done something all restaurants should consider: Add an ounce of femininity. Drinks from the previous, extremely booze-forward menu offer new senses of brightness, a variety of spirits beyond whiskey, but still harness the space as a whiskey lover’s palace.


angel's share
Photos by Brian Addison.

Angel’s 75: Butterfly Pea Flower-infused Ford’s Gin | Creme de Violette | Lemon | Mint | Prosecco


angel's share
Photos by Brian Addison.

The Lost Treasure: Diplomatico Reserve Rum | Berry liqueur | Ginger | Smoke infusion


angel's share
Photos by Brian Addison.

Godfather: John Barr Black Reserve Scotch | Amaretto | Angostura bitters | Orange bitters | Simple syrup


Didn’t you mention a holiday drink menu as well? Yes, I did.

Here are some of the great holiday drinks Angel’s Share is offering for the season.

angel's share
Photos by Brian Addison.

jingle Bells: Cinnamon-spiced Jack Daniel’s | Peach schnapps | Peach bitters | Angostura bitters | Simple syrup | Served hot or cold


angel's share
Photos by Brian Addison.

Litle Toy Soldier: Bourbon-vanilla bean-washed vodka | Coffee grind liqueur | Chila | Aztec chocolate mint | Holiday sprinkles


angel's share
Photos by Brian Addison.

Sleigh All Day: Nikka Days whisky | St. George pear liqueur | Tonic | Rosemary | Cinnamon | Smoke infusion


angel's share
Photos by Brian Addison.

Snowglobe: Off-the-menu—just order it. Promise it’s fabulous.


Angel’s Share is located at E. 2nd St.

Brian Addison
Brian Addisonhttp://www.longbeachize.com
Brian Addison has been a writer, editor, and photographer for more than 15 years, covering everything from food and culture to transportation and housing. In 2015, he was named Journalist of the Year by the Los Angeles Press Club and has since garnered 30 nominations and three additional wins. In 2019, he was awarded the Food/Culture Critic of the Year across any platform at the National Arts & Entertainment Journalism Awards. He has since been nominated in that category every year, joining fellow food writers from the Los Angeles Times, the New York Times, Eater, the Orange County Register, and more.

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