Chef Philip Pretty and sister-partner Lauren Michaelis of Heritage, Long Beach’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, have been at it for years. When I say “at it,” I mean burnishing and evolving and exacting what, precisely, Heritage is. And, just as importantly, what it could be; what it could represent on a culinary and cultural level for the city. They’ve been unafraid to shift from a sandwich shop into the highest echelons of fine dining, all the while holding onto a simultaneous glance at the past while firmly focused on the future.
And while not perfect—no such place exists but also, the identity of Heritage has felt more textbook in its beginnings than reflecting the soul Chef Phil and Lauren have for their work—their latest menu and service come pretty damn near what they’ve been working toward. And that is a pretty damn near perfect restaurant.
This is Chef Phil—with an unquestionably heavy lift from Lauren and his team—at his finest. His kitchen is where the academics of technique coalesce with the creative energy of a culinary artist. And they’re finally exploring the space where the textbook and symposiums are put aside as a reference point rather than guide. In favor? A deeper and comforting, if not outright spiritual, approach to the creation of food.
Heritage should be held up to a different standard—and it takes on that challenge proudly.
There was, admittedly, on my behalf, a more casual dismissal of Chef Phil’s work—and not because it wasn’t good. It was; if there were a textbook example of French technique combined with Californian ingredients, there would be Chef Phil’s various first tasting menus at Heritage. But I held him to a self-induced standard prompted by the Michelin star; there was no way for me not to because he is not just representing Long Beach but, with said star, is intimately tied to regional powerhouses like Kato, n/naka, Osteria Mozza, Knife Pleat…
Like Chef Dima Habibeh of Ammatoli or Chefs Michael and Stefano Procaccini of La Parolaccia, following their semifinalist recognitions with the James Beard, you are now held to a higher standard. Like Selva, Sonoratown, Tacos La Carreta, and Ammatoli, following multiple placements on Bill Addison’s Best 101 Restaurants list, you are held to a higher standard.
And while Chef Phil had rightfully captured the heart of the Michelin Guide, it was removed from the soul of his work elsewhere. For me, an avid fan of the man since his days of churning out some of the city’s finest bistro food, it felt cold, if not un-pinnable, in a sense. I couldn’t tell this was Chef Phil’s food—though I could tell it was well-made food.
The latest tasting menu at Heritage showcases an impressive breadth of technique blended with bits of wit and whimsy.
With this latest menu, there’s the melding many have been waiting for.
Bits of wit and whimsy alchemically bind with the hard science of method, preparation, and precision. Elevated, more audacious iterations of items from previous menus (even if wine pairings sometimes feel like vinegar tastings). A dire need to connect with his own history while pushing forward a team that is one of the most locked-down, sustainable, and fully-oiled machines in terms of hospitality.
It is a six-hour smoked bit of pork belly tucked into a lettuce wrap, paired with a bright, brilliantly orange chile aioli that feels more like you’re eating at a late-night Thai space more than a fine dining spot. Cured overnight with an array of seasonings and sugar, where it is put in a 12-hour sous vide after its six-hour smoke and glazed with stone fruit, this dish feels playful in its presentation yet lands with the confidence of a chef who knows exactly where whimsy ends and execution begins.
Fried, peeled, pickled tomatoes from the space’s urban farm off of Gladys Avenue that show off how beautiful a tomato locally grown can be on their own… A dashi beurre blanc sauce with smoke trout roe that reminds you of Chef Phil’s respect for French technique…
A deeper look into the sprawling summer menu of Heritage.
Or a 32-day-aged Santa Carota Farm rib chop, removed from its bone and dusted with leek ash and bachelor button flowers. This earthy, meaty, rich dish only to be met—if you’re luck enough of a table—with the bone itself slathered in a silky, perfectly concocted bourdelaise. An outright magical ending with house-made chamomile ice cream topped with the space’s proprietary n25 caviar.
Warm. Witty. Whimsy. Wondrous. If you have the means, eat this menu up, Long Beach.
Box crab crostada tartlet | Mashed avocado | Heritage Farm radish
Steamed baby heirloom corn | Braised corn puree sauce | ISI container charge | Truffle
Fried, peeled, and pickled cherry tomatoes from Heritage Farm | Basil oil bath
Heritage Farm beets | House-made yogurt | Preserved celtuce and rhubarb
Six-hour smoked Heritage pork | Stone fruit glaze | Chili aioli | Basil | Mint | Fennel | Butter lettuce
Live scallop | Dashi beurre blanc | Smoked trout roe.
Mt. Lassen trout | Beluga lentils | Herbed pistou
32-day-aged Santa Carota Farm rib chop | Artichoke puree | Sous vide leeks | Leek ash | Bachelor button flowers | Chicken bone sauce
Mille-feuille | Mascarpone pastry cream | Strawberries | Rhubarb | Pistachio.
House-made chamomile tea ice cream | Heritage n25 caviar | Chives | sea salt
Heritage is located at E. 7th St. For reservations, click here.
