Yes, Nonna Mercato is back with dinner service via its Summer Nights series on June 20, which debuted last year to merited applause. And I will get to that. But really what this endeavor represents is a multitude of things about Chef Cameron Slaugh, his kitchen, and his staff.
Firstly, Chef Cam is the most innovative pasta maker in Long Beach (with a strong follower in Chef Julianna over at Marlena). His play on shapes—from the esoteric, like busiate and pici and torchietti, to the common, like rigatoni and bucatini and spaghetti—paired with his obsession over mattarello- versus machine-rolled pastas makes him the proudly anointed Dean of Pasta.
He largely eschews the common, though when on his menu, it often reflects some of the best versions in the region—like his carbonara. Instead, you’ll find lasagna layered with spigarello, an heirloom Italian broccoli. Busiate, its tortuosity clasping equally twisted tentacles of calamari and n’duja. Chittara strands are layered with cockles and bathed in a charred oil sauce that is as charcoal in color as it is intense in flavor.
You have a kitchen that deeply respects him. And a staff that grasps the depths of his food, delightfully advertising Chef Cam’s rightful melding of Californian, French, and especially Italian techniques and flavors. With it, you have yourself an experience you wish were available year-round. Unquestionably. But also an experience that feels appropriately saved for summer nights.
How the Nonna Mercato Summer Nights menu works.
The table gets every part of the opener: n’duja stuffed arancini with chunks of focaccia and the best damn burrata you’ll have, courtesy of Campagna, Italy. You have a choice of greens to share for each two people: a freekah salad lined with fennel and artichokes; an arugula salad mixed with corn and cherries; or a stellar panzanella with heirloom tomatoes and peaches.
For the bigger courses, you have your individual choice of pasta: his classic tagliatelle with bolognese; ricotta-stuffed tortelloni with a tomato broth; or an egg-yolk filled raviolo and topped with guanciale fat and pecorino. And your individual choice of an entree: steamed mussels with a Chef Cam-Italian play on chili crisp; a risotto that is surprisingly light, herbal, and umami-forward with gorgeous morels; and a perfect steak frites with Black Hawk Farms wagyu steak slathered in a peppercorn sauce. (The steak having an absurdly approachable $12 upcharge).
The cost? $55 per person. Therefore: Go.
And a look into the dishes…
Spuntini: N’duja arrancini | Buratta di Campagna | House-made focaccia
Panzanella di pesca: Heirloom tomatoes | Peach | House-made sourdough croutons | Arugula | Purple basil | Nonna vinaigrette
Tortelloni di ricotta: Ricotta | Tomato broth | Olive oil | Pecorino
Raviolo di uovo: Egg yolk | Guanciale | Guanciale fat | Ricotta | Parmigiano Reggiano
Risotto di carnaroli: Carnaroli | Morels | Brown Butter | Chives | Lemon | Pecorino
Steak au poivre: Black Hawk Farm wagyu | Green peppercorn jus | Fries
Nonna Mercato is located at 3722 Atlantic Ave. Summer nights will provide dinner every Friday and Saturday from June 20 to Sept. 20. For reservations, which can be made up to 30 days in advance, click here.
