Monday, January 20, 2025

With newly minted liquor license, Long Beach’s Chez Bacchus is complete

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Chez Bacchus, located at the northwest corner of 4th Street and Olive Avenue, is one of the few white-cloth dining spaces in Downtown Long Beach. It has long been an underrated gem in terms of food and wine. John Hansen, co-owner/sommelier and excellent human being, and Executive Chef Danny Kay essentially lead the restaurant.

But the one thing that has long been missing to allow more freedom with John’s love of hospitality? A proper bar serving proper cocktails. With a newly minted liquor license, that’s all about to change. And it happily, if not outright proudly, brings Chez Bacchus to a full-circle moment.

chez bacchus long beach
Chez Bacchus in Downtown Long Beach. Photos by Brian Addison.

A full-circle moment for the Chez Bacchus family.

It is not odd—at any time in the late afternoon of any given day—to find John sitting down, ironing black napkins and folding them before dinner service. Not just for me but for his employees and patrons alike, it is a welcomed, familiar reflection of the man’s humbleness and dedication to the Chez Bacchus space.

And it is at these moments that you’ll find him talking about why he didn’t retire: “The thought of doing nothing is something that is not in me. I love this business; I am here because of just that. And maybe, just maybe, when I hear some folks here tell me that I don’t need to follow them around and tell them what I think they should do… When they tell me I should be home relaxing and leave the space to run independently, I will.” He pauses. “Again: maybe.”

That “maybe” is the fact that Chez Bacchus has continually grown in a space that has never really held onto a tenant until John. And with the completion of the space—dinners and appetizers can now accompany cocktails and wine—it only gives John a chance to shine further in what he does best: taking care of people through food and drinks.

chez bacchus long beach
“John Hansen’s Briefcase,” a cocktail from Chez Bacchus’s inaugural cocktail menu. Photo by Brian Addison.

Their new cocktail menu comes with the assistance of a local legend.

For John, wine and cocktails share similarities in craftsmanship and their ability to play with and enhance cuisine. So, the bar is an extension of Chez Bacchus’s ability to exercise a different form of crafting culinary experiences. Indeed, a good bartender, at its most whittled-down definition, can follow recipes and measure well. A great bartender is a balancer of flavors with a palate knowledgeable enough to know what varying flavors are in the practically endless world of booze.

This is precisely why John brought on Jason Schiffer, former owner of 320 Main and a founding member of the Orange County Bartender’s Cabinet. While John had hoped to bring Jason on permanently, the space will rely on Jason’s recipes until Chez Bacchus finds a person to oversee the program as it finds its place in the growing and beautiful Long Beach cocktail scene.

chez bacchus long beach
The “Ginger Kiss” from Chez Bacchus’s newly minted cocktail menu. Photo by Brian Addison.

Chez Bacchus is a continually underrated gem that is finding new audiences in ways that both embrace and eschew traditionality.

The space where Chez Bacchus is, before it had moved in, was perpetually plagued by bad omens.

When I first wrote about 4th & Olive in 2017, the lauded restaurant that initially opened in the space, it had only been open for six months. Its owner, Daniel Tapia, had a similar passion to John with Chez Bacchus. Of course, the main difference—and this isn’t harsh, but something I sincerely encourage anyone opening a restaurant to listen to—is that John actually knows how to operate a space. He is, first and foremost, a good operator and, secondly, a talented sommelier and owner.

Moving to Long Beach in the early 1980s, John has been a well-defined veteran of the food scene here in the city: He helped opened The Sky Room at the Breakers, helped open The 555 in DTLB—where Sam and Jeff King, sons of the founders of King’s Fish House, worked on the floor with Hansen—helped opened Mums in DTLB with John Morris, where BO-beau currently sits…

This experience is reflective of Chez Bacchus’s continual growth: With a steady food program from Chef Danny, a sold-out-for-months afternoon tea on weekends, and a growing obsession with John’s obsession with wine,

chez bacchus long beach
Drinks are now a formal happening at Chez Bacchus in Downtown Long Beach. Photo by Brian Addison.

Straightforward, many with direct plays on classics ranging from Sidecars to Derbys to martinis, Chez Bacchus wants to keep it classy, comfortable, and cozily booze-forward. Its love affair with citrus plays pleasantly loud while its array of spirit choices puts it in the classic lane.


chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

Ginger Kiss: Aviation gin | Ginger | Lemon | Clover honey


chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

Saturn: Aviation gin | Orgeat | Lemon | Passion fruit


chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

Jitter Bug: Hennesey VS cognac | Campari | Lime | Pineapple

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chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

4th & Olives: Belvedere vodka -or- Aviation gin | Dolin dry vermouth | Orange bitters | Blue cheese olive


chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

Napa Passion: Coconut rum | Lemon | Pineapple | Passion fruit


chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

Pajarito: Volcan blanco | Lime | Mint | Clover honey


chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

Queen Bee: Sir Davis Rye | Lemon | Clover honey


chez bacchus long beach
Photos by Brian Addison.

All Nighter: Coffee liqueur | Coconut rum | House-made whipped cream


chez bacchus long beach
Photo by Brian Addison.

John Hansen’s Briefcase: Woodinville Bourbon | Demerara | Bitters | Smoke


Chez Bacchus is located at 743 E. 4th St.

Brian Addison
Brian Addisonhttp://www.longbeachize.com
Brian Addison has been a writer, editor, and photographer for more than 15 years, covering everything from food and culture to transportation and housing. In 2015, he was named Journalist of the Year by the Los Angeles Press Club and has since garnered 30 nominations and three additional wins. In 2019, he was awarded the Food/Culture Critic of the Year across any platform at the National Arts & Entertainment Journalism Awards. He has since been nominated in that category every year, joining fellow food writers from the Los Angeles Times, the New York Times, Eater, the Orange County Register, and more.

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