Saturday, September 7, 2024

Olive by the Bay—steeped in Long Beach food history—connects Downey to peninsula

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Olive by the Bay—the newest restaurant to open for the community of the Peninsula—takes over a space that is rich in food history. And with it, brings something the Peninsula has never really had: A restaurant whose culinary loyalty doesn’t really know bounds. Because of this, we get a space that melds Olive’s kitchen family’s diversity—Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Mexican, and American—into a singular brunch-meets-late lunch restaurant.

Olive by the Bay steps into a place steeped in Long Beach food history

On the north side of 62nd Place, nestled near the tip of Long Beach’s sleepy-but-dreamy Peninsula neighborhood, is a small strip of commercial spaces that have long served the community. The Bay Wash laundromat. The Beverage House, with everything from Butterfingers to two-buck Chuck. 

And one single restaurant location that has seen a parade of breakfast-and-lunch-centric iterations attempting to compete with nearby staples like Chuck’s or The Potholder: There was Wanda’s. Then SUP (Stand Up Paddle) Cafe. Then Peninsula Cafe. And then there was Vibes, a contemporary take on a cafe that was much loved but couldn’t make it through the pandemic and quietly closed.

With that rich history comes Olive by the Bay, the newest iteration to take over one of Long Beach’s oldest restaurant spaces. There’s shakshouka on one hand and chilaquiles on the other. Eggs Benedict over here and fries dusted with sumac over there. A straightforward burger next to a chunks of grilled filled slathered in a mango chutney and bell peppers.

And it is all a beautiful reflection of the people behind the operation and inside the kitchen—who are no strangers to the world of restaurants.

Downey to Long Beach: Olive by the Bay is led by longtime friends

When former Downey mayor Rick Rodriquez—who helped boost Downey in his tenure as one of the most Latino-rich cities in the state—saw that he could potentially buy the space at 76½ 62nd Place on the Peninsula, he saw it as a way to not only connect to his new home but also reconnect his old one.

“The Peninsula is a very tight-knit community but a giving one—and I knew I wanted to bring something that would be steady, sustainable,” Rick said. “That’s why I brought on Sam without hesitation. He already has knowledge of the industry and they happened to run two of my favorite places in Downey.”

Sam Sarofeem—the charismatic, chatty leader whom you’ll often find conversing with customers—is really the front-facing operation that brings Olive by the Bay to life. Having opened The Olive Restobar and the (original) Green Olive in Downey, the man already has two restaurants under his belt. (And just to be clear: His Green Olive much not to be confused with The Green Olive in Long Beach.) And then there’s Sam Jr., running around serving, bussing, and directing patrons as well.

Olive by the Bay is an actual family operation—and on a packed Thursday morning, it is clear that the Peninsula community is very much in love with the space. Now, it’s getting the word to the rest of the city about what is undeniably one of our most unique spaces in one of our most unique neighborhoods.

The large menu isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel but rather return to comforting, house-made food

“We don’t make the tortillas and bread in house and that is about it,” Sam said. “Everything—our sauces, our spice blends, our salsas—are all made here. We fry our tortilla chips to order for our chilaquiles. Our crepes? Made in house”

Sam says this with pride, pointing toward a banana-stuffed crepe layered with Biscoff cookie butter and Biscoff cookie crumbles that is the dream of any sweet tooth-er out there. And the same goes for the berry compote and flapjack batter, he iterates while pointing to a plate of pancakes. Stacked thrice and slathered on one side with a bright purple concoction, it is another example of the space’s love for offering a bit of everything.

And given that, Olive by the Bay isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel when it comes to food. If anything, it is a reflection of their restaurant family’s diversity.

What is the food like? Straight-forward, uncomplicated, comforting

Their chilaquiles—some of the most solid when it comes to their fried-to-order texture—are the creation of its Mexican and Mexican-American led kitchen. The shakshouka is an ode to Sam and Rami’s own upbringings. The spicy potatoes—addictive little starchy crisps tossed in green chile and lemon—have no specific cultural origin but do reflect the culinary leanings of nearly everyone involved. That can’t-quite-pin-it-ness with the potatoes? Also reflected in their (insanely addictive) three cheese rolls: Egg roll wrappers are stuffed with feta, queso fresco, and mozzarella, blended with some Mediterranean spices, and fried before being drizzled in chipotle aioli. Again, Mexican, Middle Eastern, and Mediterranean all wrapped into one great appetizer.

Ultimately, Olive by the Bay is a welcomed addition not just because it occupied what has been an empty space but also because it is a full-fledged restaurant since before its opening. Sam and Rami—with their investment from Rick—have brought a crew who understands what they need to do to achieve efficiency and a quality experience. And that is something few new restaurants can say.

“Ultimately, we’re not just here for the Peninsula but the entire Long Beach community,” Sam said. “And we can’t wait to get to know everyone better.”

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Olive by the Bay is located at 76½ 62nd Place.

Brian Addison
Brian Addison
Brian Addison has been a writer, editor, and photographer for more than a decade, covering everything from food and culture to transportation and housing. In 2015, he was named Journalist of the Year by the Los Angeles Press Club and has since garnered 25 nominations and three additional wins. In 2019, he was awarded the Food/Culture Critic of the Year across any platform at the National Arts & Entertainment Journalism Awards.

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