For Chef Regan Chantrirak—who, with his wife Pason, opened The Second Owl in Belmont Shore—the journey to what he feels is a “proper space to experience the food of our cultures” isn’t just a story of evolution. After all, he started at a cramped kitchen, slinging takeout at the height of the pandemic in Signal Hill when the pair opened Owl Owl. And now, they stand with a full-service restaurant on 2nd Street.
If you look at Thai food in Long Beach, you will notice multiple phases. There was Panvimarn, Star of Siam (RIP), Bai’plu, Long Beach Thai, and—literally across the street from Second Owl—Phuket Thai (also RIP). These spaces held (and, with some, continue to have) up the first phase with classic, approachable (if not fairly Americanized) versions of the staples: pad thai. Pad see ew. Maybe some larb. Then there was the second phase, which their Owl Owl is a part of, as well as Chiang Rai and Manaow. This was an exploration of Thai cuisine beyond the dishes many Americans are familiar with. Beef cheeks in curry. Spicy pork sausage kao soi.
Second Owl seems to—at least right now—take Thai into an arena which simultaneously harbors but eschews traditions.
Second Owl is Chef Regan’s way to flex, evolve, and create food his other location couldn’t permit.
In a truly profound sense, Chef Regan’s belief that his food is not confined to imaginary boundaries reflects a larger sense of pride and ownership among Long Beach chefs. It reflects the quiet revolution in how more and more are not just evolving their craft but owning their taste. And when it comes to The Second Owl, it is taking Thai and Lao food into new realms.
Owl Owl Thai’s second location—rightfully dubbed The Second Owl—is, well, an entirely different fowl. Nestled in the heart of Belmont Shore, the second iteration represents a distinct evolution from its predecessor in Signal Hill. Where the original space leaned into fast-casual efficiency—perfect for a city locked down when it opened in 2021—this new iteration steps confidently into full-fledged creativity.
“We wanted to level up,” Chef Regan said. “This is the Shore—locals, tourists, people out to eat late. We wanted to showcase what we could really do… We’re not trying to be the next best thing. We’re trying to carve our own identity.”
The food of Second Owl is wonderfully multi-faceted.
And “level up” is an understatement.
And that identity is sharp, vibrant, and unapologetically personal. Sure, you’ll still find staples like pad thai and larb for those looking for the familiar. But Linh isn’t interested in just repeating the canon. He’s bending it.
Take, for example, his masterful Massaman curry, where braised short ribs are paired with—yes, you read that right—mashed potatoes and spinach. Massaman is one of the most underrated gems in the Thai culinary canon. Unlike its more fiery red and green curry siblings, Massaman is all about depth, comfort, and complexity. And, to be frank, most places that serve Massaman aren’t really using Massaman curry paste. True Massaman curry is a slow-cooked symphony of coconut milk and peanuts that leans more into cinnamon, clove, cardamom, and nutmeg than the heat of chiles.
What makes it uniquely Thai (but influenced by Persian and Indian trade routes) is this beautiful layering: sweet palm sugar, acidic tamarind, creamy coconut milk, and rich roasted spices. It doesn’t punch; it sways. It lingers. It’s a dish you remember not because it shocks your palate, but because it quietly seduces it. Massaman is Thai soul food at its most fragrant and heartfelt.
And Chef Regan has brilliantly reinterpreted it into what I would call a Thai Thanksgiving dish. The salt of the garlic mashed potatoes and the brightness of the spinach cut through the fat of the short ribs and the rich sweetness of the Massaman. Just beautiful—and witty as hell.
There’s much more to the food…
There’s a nam kao tod that is certainly one of the best in the region. At its core, it’s a salad made with crispy, deep-fried rice balls that are then broken apart and tossed with fermented pork (naem), roasted peanuts, fresh herbs, shallots, and lime juice. There’s a hit of fish sauce, a bit of chili, and this electric balance between sour, spicy, crunchy, and savory that makes every bite feel alive.
Chef Regan’s version blends red curry, egg, and koji into the fried rice balls before they’re broken. The result is a surprisingly refreshing, un-subtle, insanely go-back-for-more dish that would suit the whole table.
Or there’s one of his trippiest (in the best way possible) dishes: a tom kha-inspired crème brûlée. It shouldn’t work; it absolutely does. The traditional flavors of tom kha—coconut milk cut with lime, lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaf, and, yes, even the savory elements—are all there. It is a creamy, salty, tart, slightly sweet gem that makes it one of the city’s current finest desserts.
“Some of these dishes have been in my notebook for over ten years,” Chef Regan said. “This is the first time I’ve had the space to cook them.”
The roots of the food behind both Owl Owl and Second Owl run deep.
Linh’s roots run deep. Raised in Stockton, a city with one of the nation’s most vibrant Southeast Asian communities, his childhood was spent bouncing between family restaurants and late-night service industry hustle.
“I’d be busing tables at seven, opening beer bottles for my uncle’s nightclub at ten, and finally learning the wok by nineteen,” Chef Regan said, laughing.
But a particularly special place? Angel Cruz Park in Stockton. If his grandmother wasn’t able to welcome him home with a plate of fried chicken wings, papaya salad, and sticky rice, this is where they would head to in order to score a substitute. This trio—chicken, papaya, rice—became a nostalgic triptych for Chef Regan. And it was something he immediately wanted to reflect on the menu.
Originally called the “After-School Special,” they opted for “The Belmont” instead as an ode to their new neighborhood. The result? Chicken wings, with their succulent nature, that match those of Shlap Muan. Not just a papaya salad but a choice between Thai or Lao papaya salad. The Thai version leans sweet, sour, and spicy. Lao papaya salad is funkier and saltier. And then that classic sticky rice.
A simple look at the complex food of The Second Owl.
Palate-openers. Bold. The full fluidity of the beauty that is the combination of heat, salt, and acid. It’s everything you want from Thai cuisine, melded with talent of a chef who loves other cultures.
Pork Belly Appetizer: Cooked, then brined, then fried, then seasoned pork belly | Cucumber | Nam jim jaew
Kai Palo Heng: Slow-braised caramelized pork belly | Soft-boiled egg | Five-spice broth
Kao Soi Duck: Roasted duck | Coconut milk and red curry broth | Egg noogles | Crispy fried noodles | Pickled mustard greens | Shallots | Lime | Chili oil
Short Rib Massaman: Slow-braised beef short ribs | Massaman curry | Mashed potatoes | Spinach
The Belmont: Thai-style or Lao-style papaya salad | Chicken wings | Sticky rice
Boat Noodle: Rice noodle | Bean sprouts | Green onion | Beef, meatballs | Chinese broccoli | Spices
Duck Egg Roll: Roasted duck | Carrot | Cabbage | Shallots | Black pepper
Baan Yaang: Chicken satay | Moo ping | Filet Mignon
Kao tung na tung: Ground pork | Shrimp | Coconut milk | Chili oil | Spices | Shrimp crackers
The future of The Second Owl is bright.
He credits his wife, now business partner, for pushing him to take risks—and Belmont Shore for giving him the canvas. “We’re already thinking of a tasting menu. We want to go deeper,” Chef Regan said. “But we also kept some of the hits for the Shore crowd. You’ve got to earn trust before you flip the whole script.”
And trust, slowly but surely, is building. The team has expanded, the feedback has been strong, and the plates—layered, thoughtful, honest—are speaking for themselves.
Owl Owl has grown up. And Long Beach is better for it.
The Second Owl is located at 5272 E. 2nd St.
