Saturday, December 13, 2025

This hot chocolate from Lola’s in Long Beach is (literally) the last of its kind from Oaxaca

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Lola’s—like its sister, The Social List, across the street on 4th Street—is undergoing subtle changes that will become a larger story for the space. Following Chef Luis Navarro’s win at the inaugural Long Beach Grand Prix Fixe competition, it has lit a fire within him to approach his restaurants. Lola’s is not excluded.

lola's Long Beach hot chocolate oaxaca Susana Trilling
Pozole is also back at Lola’s—one of many great pairings with its Oaxacan hot chocolate. Photos by Brian Addison.

New items include a chipotle-saturated tortilla soup that leans toward a stew more than a brothy bowl—perfect for the winter. There’s an Enqrique’s-inspired pork shank that eschews a traditional chile verde in favor of a pepĂ­an-like mole verde. And the space’s annual offerings of red and green enchiladas and pozole rojo are underway…

But the end of 2025 offers something particularly special: a cup of hot Oaxacan chocolate made with the mole paste of the late and great Oaxacan chef, Susana Trilling.

lola's Long Beach hot chocolate oaxaca Susana Trilling
Hot chocolate made from the late Chef Susana Trilling’s famed mole paste is being served at Lola’s. Photos by Brian Addison.

How Chef Susana Trilling’s mole paste—made by her own hands and shipped in tubs—got into the hands Lola’s

“Chef Susana is a friend,” Chef Luis said, noting their long relationship through various meetings both Stateside and in Mexico. One of those meetings, she was offended that Chef Luis was not buying her mole paste, but Chef Thomas Keller was. Chef Luis has featured her mole a handful of times—including the use of it twice during Long Beach Food Scene Week—but this offering is special.

“She sent me 30 pounds of the paste before she tragically passed,” Chef Luis said. “We are using the last of it to create true Oaxcan hot chocolate.”

lola's Long Beach hot chocolate oaxaca Susana Trilling
Tamales are the perfect accompaniment to Lola’s Oaxacan hot chocolate. Photo by Brian Addison.

Beautifully complex—the roller coaster of Chef Susana’s mole takes the lead role: from the beautifully black pasilla mixe to the earthy chilhuacle chile to the rare bi-color cacao beans she used—and naturally creamy—there is not one ounce of milk to be found in this chocolately concoction—it is a wonderful ode to the late chef.

And yes, you can booze it up with a shot of aged rum.

lola's Long Beach hot chocolate oaxaca Susana Trilling
Lola’s new pork shank with mole verde would make Chef Susana Trilling proud. Photos by Brian Addison.

Why Chef Susana Trilling was such an important figure in Mexican cuisine—specifically Oaxacan food.

Susana Trilling’s story is one of cultural immersion, preservation, and passionate storytelling through food. Born in New York and raised in Mexico City, she eventually made Oaxaca her home, where she became one of the most influential interpreters of the region’s cuisine for an international audience. Her journey began as a television producer, but her fascination with Oaxacan ingredients, techniques, and traditions pulled her into the kitchen and onto the page.

lola's Long Beach hot chocolate oaxaca Susana Trilling
The chipotle- and roasted tomato-saturated tortilla soup at Lola’s in Long Beach. Photo by Brian Addison.

In the 1990s, she founded Seasons of My Heart, a cooking school and culinary center located on a working ranch outside Oaxaca City. Through hands-on classes, regional tours, and deeply researched instruction, she offered travelers and aspiring cooks unprecedented access to the complexities of Oaxacan gastronomy—from the laborious craft of moles to the agricultural histories behind chiles, corn, and chocolate.

terrible burger lola's long beach
Luis Navarro of Lola’s Mexican Cuisine and The Social List. Photo by Brian Addison.

Chef Luis Navarro takes on the challenge of evolution

In this vein, it is wildly inspiring to see Chef Luis inspired by both Chef Susana and the local food scene itself. His newly minted pork shank—slathered in a wonderfully savory, earthy, and spicy mole verde that would make Chef Susana proud—is but one example of how he is trying to get Lola’s patrons to move beyond burritos and tacos. Or his stew-y tortilla soup, where hefty layers of chipotle and roasted tomatoes round out this Mexican-American classic in a new, more hearty way.

The blunt reality is that—particularly after nearly 20 years in the game and amidst the ungodly rapidity with which the Long Beach food scene has altered—it is hard to find inspiration. Chef Luis has always stuck to one thing—and has done so smartly: keep the business first and the culinary pride second. Feed your employees, your family, and yourself before your ego. It is the reason a space like Lola’s has lasted nearly two decades, while seemingly countless restaurants have shuttered.

Come 2026, expect big changes at Lola’s and The Social List. And, if you can, offer a little applause on the way toward each team. They deserve it.

Lola’s Mexican Cuisine has two locations: 2030 E. 4th Street on Retro Row and at 4140 Atlantic Ave. in Bixby Knolls.

Brian Addison
Brian Addisonhttp://www.longbeachize.com
Brian Addison has been a writer, editor, and photographer for more than 15 years, covering everything from food and culture to transportation and housing. In 2015, he was named Journalist of the Year by the Los Angeles Press Club and has since garnered 30 nominations and three additional wins. In 2019, he was awarded the Food/Culture Critic of the Year across any platform at the National Arts & Entertainment Journalism Awards. He has since been nominated in that category every year since, joining fellow food writers from the Los Angeles Times, the New York Times, Eater, the Orange County Register, and more.

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